For a week we had the run of Umah di Beji, a 3,000-square-metre walled compound housing five villas, a large open living space and dining area, a 15-metre pool, sundeck, lush and floral gardens, emerald lawns and a number of small meditation huts in which - at various times of the day - we retreated for quiet contemplation. Increasingly, Bali addicts are opting for the private villa option over large impersonal hotels, mainly because it offers five-star exclusivity at more affordable prices.